Install Manual Boost Controller Mazdaspeed Protege 18

Manual Boost Controller; OEM Replacement Parts. Gaskets; Ignition Parts; Motor Mounts; Coolant Overflow Tank; Fluids. Fuel Pumps & Install Kits; Fuel Rails; Gauges and Mounts. Boost Gauges. MazdaSpeed Miata > Manual Boost Controller; Manual Boost Controller.

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*Registered Members get access to the Off Topic Area of the Forum *Registered Members have an opportunity to upgrade their accounts to VIP, which brings a host of goddies for supporting MSF such as Raffles, Additional Forum Access, More PM Storage, The ability to upload more Images and many other enhancements. *Registered members also get access to the live chat box! So I am running into problems holding boost up top (fully bolted.catless). My wastegate is getting maxed at 5500+ RPM and at 6000 RPM Im @ 17.8 psi. I really am trying to get 18.5 psi.

I'm thinking of trying out a upgraded wastegate actuator (forge) to see if this can help my issue. Does anyone have an aftermarket one? I just want someone to clarify how you use it. I know there are different springs.but I also heard there is a adjustment of the spring tension or something. Also.others would mention EBC/MBC. I assume since I have an AP.I won't need a boost controller.correct? I have the Forge WGA with a 14-19 psi spring, not the PTP WGA, but I can tell you that it's a radical improvement upon the stocker.

I'm pretty sure the PTP WGA will give you similar results. Also, the Forge piece is expensive and very difficult to find, so you might as well rock the PTP WGA. The most important improvement was the ability to hit boost targets of 20 psi in 1st and 2nd gears for the first time ever. The stock WGA never came close to 20 psi until 3rd gear. That alone makes the car way quicker and more fun to drive. Of course, being able to hold 17 to 20 psi, as desired, up to 6000 RPM is awesome too. You will need to be able to tune boost somehow, and be patient and diligent to do it correctly, or you may see excessive spiking.

Once it's dialed in though, Whoa Nelly! Oh, as far as the install, it's a bit of a PITA, but I've had it in and out three times now for dealer visits, and I can do it in about 45 minutes. 1 - Remove battery and turbo inlet. 2 - Use 13mm socket with long extension to remove bolts holding WGA to turbo. 3 - Use 8mm ratchet and closed end wrench to remove three bolts holding rear/lower turbo heatshield. The driver side and rear bolt aren't bad, but the bottom one, accessible only with an wrench, is a real PITA, especially if you have big arms.

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You'll leave the heatshield in place, and just shove it around to get to what you need to. 4 - Remove the circlip holding the WGA rod to the flapper arm.

BE CAREFUL!!! DON'T LOSE IT! It's not super easy to get off, and you can't really see what you're doing from the top.

I use a small flat bladed screwdriver to pry against and can usually get it off in a minute or two. If you do it from underneath the car, it's possible to see what's going on to get it off, but you'll never get it on from under there.

5 - Pull the old WGA off and install the new one. Adjust the rod to the desired preload.

I recommend zero to 1 or 2mm of preload, max. Too much, and you'll get part throttle full boost, which is not a good thing. 6 - Installation is the reverse of install.

Just make sure to be careful putting the circlip back on. Also, you can use a vise grips to hold the rod near the WGA, and use a socket to turn the rod end to adjust the length. 7 - Build a new map with EASY/LIGHT boost. Tune from there, and don't blow your shit up. Also found this. There aren't any vehicle specific instructions for any of our actuators as most are used as direct remove and replace units for the OEM part.